The History of the New Balance 550
The New Balance 550 was seen for the first time in 1989. The original name of the model was "P550" and it was released as a basketball shoe. At that time, it was not uncommon for low-top models to be produced and used for basketball. It was also very common for basketball shoes to have a full leather upper, and the New Balance 550 was no different.
New Balance was mainly known for its running shoes at the time, and therefore, the 550 was not very popular in the United States. Running models like the 990 and the 1500 eclipsed the basketball silhouette.
Innovative technology was needed for a successful model on the market at the time, which the 550 unfortunately didn’t have. Remarkably, the New Balance 550 nevertheless managed to establish itself in Europe.
The silhouette features a sleek design. It has a high-quality upper made of both smooth and perforated leather, paired with breathable mesh lining and a rubber sole. Generally, the 550 got a simple colorway that consisted of only two colours.
The upper was almost always white leather, while special design elements like the "N" on the midsole were given one, or at most two contrasting colours. The two-colour designs of the basketball shoes were very popular in the 80s - 90s.
It mostly stayed under the radar since then, but celebrated a huge comeback in the 2020s. Many sneaker enthusiasts started to revive the vintage sneaker trend, and the chunky design of the 550 fit perfectly.
Aimé Leon Dore x NB550
But it was a collaboration with New York clothing shop Aimé Leon Dore that truly brought the NB550 back onto the scene. Teddy Santis, the founder of the brand, has always had a great love and passion for fashion and basketball, and had already entered into several collaborations with New Balance.
In 2020, Santis took aim at the mostly forgotten basketball silhouette and brought it back to the market. Because the model was so unpopular when it was released, there weren’t any pictures of it around, but eventually he found sketches and illustrations in a Japanese catalogue, and based on that, he rebuilt the silhouette.
A striking feature of the ALD x New Balance collab is the intentionally yellowed midsole, which gives the sneaker an aesthetic vintage look.
"Reintroducing the P550 Basketball Oxfords. They were originally released in 1989 and haven’t been touched since. The silhouette has been something of an enigma — almost impossible to find information on it. Took us a couple years and a lot of work to bring this shoe back. Everything about the 550’s and what they represented felt like this would be the perfect romance to activate SONNY and the ALD grassroots basketball program. Major hat tip to the whole NB team for giving us this runway and believing in the vision."
Teddy Santis
The Collab models released in a pack of four in 2020, including a 'Red', 'Green', 'Grey' and 'Navy Blue' version. A further two colorways were released in 2021, this time including a 'Natural Green' and 'White Navy Red' version. 2022 saw 'Purple', 'Olive' and 'Brown' versions released as the model continued to gain popularity, as well as two neutral-coloured colorways, one of which in a suede version.
The latest collaboration happened in May 2023, with two colorways released in Suede in a 'Brown' and 'Taupe' version.
Size? x NB550
After Aimé Leon Dore brought back the model, the established sneaker retailer size? also enjoyed a new collaboration with New Balance and the 550. In this collaboration, the sneaker was given the retailer's signature bright orange colour on various design elements and was released exclusively via the size? app. The yellowed midsole also became an important part of this design.
Rich Paul x NB550
Rich Paul also had an important collaboration on the NB550 in 2021. The sports agent, known for representing basketball players like Lebron James and Chris Paul, wanted to "-encourage kids to dream bigger and find their balance."
The sneaker has a cream and dark blue colorway, with the retro pair sporting the sports agent's name on the tongue. This colour scheme was the first one Rich picked out and, according to him, is suitable for everyone. "Everyone can wear it, the palette of it, you can match it with pretty much anything in terms of the base," he said.
Thisisneverthat x NB550
In 2023, Korean streetwear brand Thisisneverthat brought a couple of autumnal colorways to the NB550, with the 'Dark Green' and 'Brown'. The design was a tribute to the nostalgic skateboarding and hiking styles that made the 90s so iconic, with uppers made from faded, washed canvas, embroidered logos, and a thick black sole reinforced with extra rubber for a resilient step.
New Balance 550: Answering Your Questions
When did the first New Balance 550 come out?
The New Balance 550 was originally released in 1989 as a basketball shoe under the model name 'P550'. At that time, the shoe did not achieve the fame it had hoped for and the hype failed to materialise. However more than 30 years later the silhouette is now a box office hit due to the vintage and retro trend.
What materials is the NB 550 made of?
The upper is made from high-quality, smooth and perforated leather and breathable mesh lining, on a rubber sole. The two-tone, high-profile outsole and minimalist NB logo give this revived legend a vintage look to match.
Do New Balance 550 stretch?
As the NB550 is constructed from materials including leather and mesh, the sneaker does not stretch significantly over time. Leather may soften and become more flexible, but it doesn't stretch.
How does the New Balance 550 fit?
The New Balance 550 is available in width size D (standard). The sneaker falls true to size, but should you have wider feet, you might consider going half a size up. This is because the pair has a fairly narrow fit.
Are New Balance 550 good for walking?
The NB550 is an excellent choice for casual walking, with a durable leather upper, decent cushioning, and a flat, stable sole. However, it is not recommended for running, as it lacks the proper arch support, flexibility, and shock support that running shoes generally feature. For gym use, it's appropriate for weightlifting, but not any significant cardio.
Do New Balance 550 make you taller?
The NB550 has a thick midsole, providing decent cushioning and a slight height boost of around 3-4cm (1-1.5").
How much does the NB 550 cost?
The standard models with 2-tone colorway and without collaboration retail at €130. Special models and collaborations are usually around €150.
How do you clean New Balance 550?
A New Balance 550 is best cleaned by hand. For the best results, remove the laces, then use a toothbrush to remove obvious dirt from the surface. Mix a mild detergent with some water, and use a sponge or cloth to gently scrub harder stains, or for suede, use a suede brush (water can damage suede). Use a damp cloth to wipe off the residue, then let them air-dry.
For a smelly sneaker, you can sprinkle baking soda inside the shoe, then leave overnight. The powder will absorb moisture and neutralise the smell. Shake out the excess before wearing again. Alternatively, you can use silica gel or activated charcoal bags for the same results.
Laces can be cleaned with a mild detergent and rinsed afterwards, or you can put white laces in a 1:5 bleach and water solution for a few minutes and then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
In addition, we do not recommend putting your shoes in the washing machine. Sneakers made of leather and suede can come out damaged. With shoes made of canvas or cotton, the risk is less, but the chance of damaged sneakers remains. So we recommend always washing your sneakers by hand. If you do put them in the washing machine, then place the shoes in an old pillowcase beforehand.
How can I tell if a New Balance 550 is fake?
You don't recognise fake New Balance by one fixed indicator. In fact, it is a combination of indicators that vary from pair to pair. However, you can use these indicators to virtually determine whether a pair of NB550s are genuine:
- Logo – the "N" logo on the midsole should be thick, slightly protruding, with thicker and shorter stitching. The logo on a fake can be thinner and flatter, with longer and thinner stitches. The "550" text should be positioned closer to the top stitches.
- Toe Box – the toe box patch should end just before the "550" text begins.
- Heel – the heel should have a slimmer appearance.
- Sole – the outsole should include detailed trims with quality lettering, such as 'new balance'.
- Interior – check the inside tag has the correct fonts and spacing. The print should be clean. Fakes can feature blurry, bold, or oversized text.
- Stitching – the stitching should be consistent, with thick, short, dense stitches.
Where can I buy New Balance 550?
Do you have your eye on this model? With our sneaker search engine, you can browse the New Balance 550 at different retailers and at different prices. Our release calendar also keeps you up to date on NB550 restocks and new releases!
Popular NB550 Colorways
New Balance have released many successful colorways on the NB550, and these are some of the most popular and all-time favourites.
New Balance 550 'White/Green' | BB550WT1
The 'White/Green' is a very popular colorway on the NB550. The upper of this silhouette is primarily leather, with a mesh heel and a suede overlay around the toe. The dominant colour is white, covering most of the upper.
Green accents appear on the overlay beneath the collar, the rubber heel border, and the New Balance branding. This green hue also highlights the tongue and outsole, while the midsole remains white.
New Balance 550 'White/Red' | BB550SE1
The New Balance 550 'White/Red' delivers a classic retro look. Its white leather upper features perforations on the side panel for breathability. Black accents appear on the mudguards and collar overlays, while the red N-logo and stitched "550" on the toecap add bold contrast.
The outsole matches the red details for a cohesive design, and the tongue label showcases the New Balance logo.
New Balance 'University Gold' - Premium Pack | BB550LA1
The NB550 'University Gold', part of the Sea Salt pack which also contains the 'Maroon' and 'Black & White' colorways, updates the vintage low-top silhouette with a clean two-tone design. It features a white leather upper with bold yellow accents, including the raised N-logo on the lateral side.
Additional details include a suede toe wrap, perforated midfoot overlay, and a woven New Balance 550 tongue tag. The look is completed with a yellow rubber outsole.
Joe Freshgoods x New Balance 550 - Conversations Amongst Us | BB550BH1
For the 'Conversations Amongst Us' collection, which also includes a 2002R, Joe Freshgoods gave the 550 a major makeover. The upper of the 550 silhouette is mainly made of leather, but for this release, the upper is made of canvas. This gives the sneaker a raw, natural look.
The colour scheme is a light yellow. The light yellow 'N' on the side of the upper is outlined with black. A clothing line in the same colours also came with this collection.
New Balance 550 'Carolina Blue' | BB550HL1
An ideal sneaker for the warmer spring months, the New Balance 550 'UNC White University Blue 'Carolina Blue' delivers a retro basketball-inspired look with modern styling.
The white upper is accented with subtle yet striking North Carolina baby blue on the soles, tongue, and logo, creating a clean yet bold aesthetic. It features the signature "N" logo on the sides and traditional New Balance branding on the tongue.
New Balance 550 'White/Grey' | BB550PB1
The clean and minimalist design of the 'White/Grey' means that the sneaker is an absolute classic from the NB550 line.
Blending street style with a 90s retro vibe, the premium leather and suede materials ensure that this sneaker will effortlessly match any outfit, while providing all-day comfort, durability, and breathability. The rubber outsole also offers great grip and traction.
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