The History of the Nike Air Max 90
The Air Max 90 was Nike’s third silhouette with a visible Air unit, and like the name suggests, it came onto the market in 1990. It was originally marketed as the ‘Nike Air Max III’ but was renamed as the Air Max 90 in the early 2000s, after its debut year.
Tinker Hatfield, genius behind the Air Max 1 and several Air Jordan models, was also the designer of the Air Max 90. After the success of the first Air Max model, he wanted to improve on the design.
He took elements from both the original Air Max and the Air Max Light model from 1989 (also known as the Air Max II) and incorporated them into the wide eyelets and rubber overlay in the forefoot area, the microfibre and mesh upper, and the lightly padded nylon tongue.
He then expanded the visible Air Unit, making it more pronounced, and streamlined the overall design of the Air Max 90, giving it a sharper, more aggressive profile inspired by Italian sports cars.
The AM90 was first released in the now iconic ‘Infrared’ colorway. Designed to draw attention to the visible Air unit, highlighting Nike’s technology, the sneaker placed a vibrant red tone around the unit. Multiple retro versions were released over the year, most notably in 2020, where a near identical recreation of the original 1990 version was released to celebrate the 30th anniversary.
Influential Nike Air Max 90 Collabs
Nike Air Max 90 x DQM
The Air Max 90 has seen some of the best collabs of all time, starting with the ‘Bacon’. Released in 2004, with a re-release in 2021, this collaboration between Nike and DQM (Dave’s Quality Meat) put a delicious spin on the model.
Inspired by the titular meat product, the ‘Bacon’ used a pink, red, off-white and brown colour scheme to mimic the breakfast staple. It quickly became one of the most sought-after AM90 collabs ever, with a limited release making it a highly valuable collector’s item.
Nike Air Max 90 x Patta
Amsterdam-based sneaker boutique Patta released the legendary ‘Homegrown’ colorway exclusively in the Netherlands in 2006, in an extremely limited production run.
The green sneaker reflected Amsterdam’s strong connection to cannabis culture and used premium suede and patent leather in its construction. The mudguard featured a grass-like texture, while the Dutch national colour was seen in the bright orange lining.
One of the first major Patta x Nike collabs, it paved the way for later hits like the Patta ‘Wave’ Air Max 1 series.
Nike Air Max 90 x Atmos
Another famous collab on the AM90 was with Japanese retailer Atmos, who released the ‘Duck Camo’ in 2013.
The striking sneaker featured a mix of camo patterns and infrared detailing, inspired by hunting gear. It was released exclusively through Atmos, making it limited and hard to find.
Nike Air Max 90 x Off-White
Part of ‘The Ten’ collection, released by Virgil Abloh in 2017, this Air Max 90 is another grail for collectors.
The sneaker featured a deconstructed, industrial look with a mix of vintage and futuristic elements. Exposed foam and raw stitching gave it an unfinished, DIY vibe, with semi-translucent materials on the sole and upper giving it that ultra-modern feel. It was finished with Off-White’s signature zip-tie.
Nike Air Max 90 Variations
Over the years, the classic design of the Nike Air Max 90 has been joined by a few special variations and different versions.
Nike Air Max 90 Essential
The AM90 Essential is an updated version of the OG silhouette, featuring modern materials while keeping the classic design intact.
It uses synthetic leather overlays instead of real leather for more breathability, with a more durable mesh in the upper for ventilation and comfort. The overall construction is lighter and more enduring.
Nike Air Max 90 Ultra
The AM90 Ultra is made for better flexibility and breathability than the original version, with the key differences in design being the one-piece seamless upper and ultra-cushioned midsole made with hollowed-out foam.
These changes reduce weight, and a more flexible outsole with cut-out sections improves the movement and comfort of the shoe. The overall design has a slimmer, sportier look.
Nike Air Max 90 Flyknit
The Flyknit AM90 features a hands-free entry system designed for people with disabilities. The heel collapses and spring back up, and the upper is stretchy with a wider opening, allowing for easy slip-on access.
A modified heel counter and strap system have been added for better lockdown without laces. Overall, the model still retains the original Air Max 90 look, but adds accessibility features for those who prefer or need them.
Nike Air Max 90 PRM
This high-end version of the AM90 features premium materials, unique colorways, and upgraded details. The overall shape remains the same, however.
PRM versions of the AM90 use premium suede, leather, nubuck, or other more unique materials, while their colorways tend to be bolder, with patterns, prints and textures.
Nike Air Max 90 GORE-TEX
A weather-resistant version of the classic Nike Air Max 90, GORE-TEX technology has been used in these sneakers for enhanced protection against rain and snow.
The GORE-TEX upper is waterproof yet breathable, keeping your feet dry while allowing moisture to escape. Sealed seams and a higher-cut tongue also work to prevent water from entering, and the rubber waffle outsole provides extra grip on wet and slippery surfaces.
Nike Air Max 90 Futura
The Futura is a modern reinterpretation of the classic model, introducing a layered aesthetic with sawtooth edging around the toe and a partially floating Swoosh. Extra details like moulded plastic on the heel and eye stays have also been added to this women's exclusive model.
Plush padding has also been added around the ankle, the midsole slightly heightened, and woven pull tabs included for a contemporary touch.
Nike Air Max 90: Answering Your Questions
When did the Air Max 90 come onto the market?
The Nike Air Max 90 was launched in 1990. Originally known as the Nike Air Max III, it was renamed to the Air Max 90 in the early 2000s.
What inspired the design of the Air Max 90?
When developing the design of the AM90, Tinker Hatfield used elements from his previous two models - The Air Max 1 (1987) and the Air Max Light (1989). These can be found primarily in the wide eyelets and rubber overlay in the forefoot area, the microfibre and mesh upper, and the lightly padded nylon tongue.
He then gave it a more pronounced Air Unit, and an overall sharper silhouette, inspired by Italian sports cars.
How does the Air Max 90 fit?
The Air Max 90 runs true to size, although those with wider feet might consider sizing up half a size.
Are Nike Air Max 90 waterproof?
Air Max 90 are not waterproof, however there are versions of the model that are designed specifically to be water-resistant, including the Air Max 90 GORE-TEX, Air Max 90 Sneakerboot, and some Nike Air Max 90 Utility.
How do you tie the Nike Air Max 90?
For guidance on tying your AM90 laces, check out our Ultimate Sneakerjagers Lacing Guide!
How to tell if Nike Air Max 90 are fake?
You don't recognise fake Air Max 90 by one fixed indicator. In fact, it is a combination of indicators that vary from pair to pair. However, you can use these indicators to virtually determine whether a pair of AM90 are genuine:
Material and colour, stitching, smell (fakes might have a strong chemical odour), weight (fakes tend to be lighter than the real thing), placement of the Swoosh, shape of the heel, discrepancies on the tongue, nose, insole and outsole, errors on the size label, incorrect product code (SKU), flimsy or faded packaging, lack of or discrepancies in accessories and, finally, judging prices and sellers.
How do you clean Nike Air Max 90?
An Air Max 90 should be cleaned by hand. For the best results, remove the laces, then use a toothbrush to remove obvious dirt from the surface. Mix a mild detergent with some water and use a sponge or cloth to gently scrub harder stains, or for suede, use a suede brush (water can damage suede). Use a damp cloth to wipe off the residue, then let them air-dry.
For a smelly sneaker, you can sprinkle baking soda inside the shoe, then leave overnight. The powder will absorb moisture and neutralise the smell. Shake out the excess before wearing again. Alternatively, you can use silica gel or activated charcoal bags for the same results.
Laces can be cleaned with a mild detergent and rinsed afterwards, or you can put white laces in a 1:5 bleach and water solution for a few minutes and then rinse thoroughly with clean water.
In addition, we do not recommend putting your shoes in the washing machine. Sneakers made of leather and suede can come out damaged. With shoes made of canvas or cotton, the risk is less, but the chance of damaged sneakers remains. So we recommend always washing your sneakers by hand. If you do put them in the washing machine, then place the shoes in an old pillowcase beforehand.
Where can I buy Nike Air Max 90?
Do you have your eye on this model? With our sneaker search engine, you can browse the Nike Air Max 90 at different retailers and at different prices. Our release calendar also keeps you up to date on AM90 restocks and new releases!
Popular Nike Air Max 90 Colorways
Nike have released many successful colorways on the AM90, and these are some of the most popular and all-time favourites.
Nike Air Max 90 ‘Reverse Infrared’ | 725233-006
The ‘Reverse Infrared’ flips the classic design for a fresh look. Released in 2015, this version retains the signature Infrared accents on the outsole, eyelets and heel, but swaps the white and grey upper for a darker base.
This modern reinterpretation stays true to the original DNA while giving off a modern, sleeker look.
Nike Air Max 90 ‘Volt’ | CD0881-103
The ‘Volt’ stays true to the classic AM90 design, using bold Volt Yellow accents for an eccentric look. A white mesh upper, light grey suede overlays and black leather mudguard are all overshadowed by the Volt detailing on the sneaker.
This high-contrast, statement sneaker combines both vintage and modern design in an electrifying colorway.
Nike Air Max 90 ‘Laser Blue’ | CJ6779-100
This alternative to the ‘Infrared’ replaces vibrant red with Laser Blue accents, complementing the traditional light grey suede overlays and white leather upper.
Released in 2020 as part of the model’s 30th anniversary, the ‘Laser Blue’ is a nostalgic fan favourite.
Nike Air Max 90 Recraft ‘Chlorophyll’ | CT4352-102
The ‘Chlorophyll’ incorporates a colour scheme made famous by the Air Trainer 1. It was also released in 2020 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the model.
A white mesh upper is complemented by a black leather mudguard and Chlorophyll Green accents on the eyelets, midsole, and around the Air unit.
Nike WMNS Air Max 90 ‘Eggplant’ | CW1360-100
This women’s exclusive release brought a bold, refined colorway to the classic silhouette. The ‘Eggplant’ features the usual white mesh upper, but uses a purple leather mudguard and red Swoosh, among other coloured accents, to give a regal touch to the sneaker.
This sneaker was a popular choice among those who liked to add a pop of vibrant colour to their outfit.
Nike Air Max 90 ‘Snakeskin’ | HF1212-200
This striking iteration of the classic AM90 used luxurious snakeskin-textured overlays on a palette of brown to celebrate the Year of the Snake in 2025.
Gold accents add hints of luxury to the ‘Snakeskin’, boosting its refined colour scheme to something extra special.
Nike Air Max 90 ‘Reverse Duck Camo’ | CW6024-600
Released for Nike Air Max Day 2020, the ‘Reverse Duck Camo’ flipped the original ‘Duck Camo’ colorway from the legendary Nike x Atmos collab in 2013, making the Infrared colour dominant with camo overlays.
It was more widely available than the 2013 version but is still a highly coveted sneaker.
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